Typed out this post when I haven't even finished with the meals on this trip, because I loved the food at this particular restaurant. Now, at the end of the trip, my gut feel is right. I'm going with this one. Without a doubt, the meal at the unpretentious Gam Ro Dang (감로당) is the favorite of them all. It serves Korean Buddhist temple cuisine called 'sachal' (사찰). Situated in a traditional Korean house in a quiet alley, the restaurant is always packed full and requires reservations.
There're set menus here which aren't the cheapest around. The sets start at KRW38,000++ per pax, and whichever set chosen requires a minimum of 2 orders. But the ingredients used are awesome. Each dish is beautifully presented, and painstakingly made. We started with a delicate cup of white lotus tea which I'd have preferred it to be hotter than room temperature.
The table of Koreans and non-Koreans was here for the first time, and we were surprised to find out that the restaurant serves alcohol. Okay...good for us! AS usual, with this table, there's no such thing as ordering only one type of alcohol. Or one bottle, for that matter. We began with homemade makgeolli and continued with two different types of not-too-strong sweetish and non-sweet soju. Every restaurant in Seoul has its own version of makgeolli. It's like...the easiest thing to drink. At this rate, I'm beginning to discern good makgeolli from the mediocre.
Bibimbap! |
I'm not a big fan of bibimbap. However, Gam Ro Dang serves the only version of commercial bibimbap I like, without the gochujang mixed in. It's served in a squeeze tube at the side if you wish to add more of it. The sesame oil is separately served as well. Yay! Vegetables and roots, nuts and all filled up the offered brown rice mixed with black grains, enriching the flavors of this last dish of the menu before dessert. As usual, no craving for sweets. Didn't take to the desserts of susubukumi (glutinous fried acacia honey millet pancakes) and candied ginger, and a bowl of sweet sikhye.
Our sets had about 15 dishes. Nothing complicated, yet the dishes are textured evenly, and the palate tasted new flavors in many mouthfuls. Very filling. I savored every dish, every bite. What an exquisite meal.
Gam Ro Dang (감로당)
35-106 Tong Uidong, Jongno-gu, Seoul,
Gyeongbokgung Station Line 3, Exit 3. (If the shops still exist, it's past Dunkin Donuts, turn right at the Starbucks, down the alley, and on your right.)
Tel: +82 02-3210-3397
Last seating at 8pm. They close at 9.30pm.
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