Joint Security Area (판문점)

At the observatory atop Mount Dora, looking across to DPRK from the 38th parallel of the DMZ. Had to take this from behind a yellow line, behind these telescopes. No going nearer for photos. Which is weird, considering that telescopic lens can do what my point-and-shoot can't. And the humans on these telescopes in front of me are much easier targets for hostile snipers. 

This is one highlight of the week- to see available portions of the Korean DMZ, the military demarcation line, get as close as possible to North Korea (or DPRK) and look at its southernmost city- Kaesong. I specifically wanted to get on the tour bus with Camp USO for this half-day trip. Their travel arm Kooridor does decent organization with the tours. No issues with the meeting point to be at Camp USO instead of picking us up at the hotel. It's easy to get there via the subway. The dress code on this visit is strict, and it wouldn't be wise to go against the rules. But generally, it's a fairly relaxed afternoon. There's so much information about the Korean war, the split and recent antagonistic incidents that it's better to read up about the key timelines before going on this tour.

More than all the observation points and that short steep walk through bits of the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, it was to the Joint Security Area (JSA) within Panmunjom where North and South Korean soldiers stand face to face. This is why South Korea still has compulsory 2-year military service period for the men. The DMZ is only 62km northwest of Seoul, never mind that it's 215km south of Pyeongyang. Seoul is vulnerable. The threat is near and the danger is omnipresent.

Within the blue buildings of the JSA, which is metonymously referred to as 'Panmunjom'.

The strip of 250km long and 4km wide DMZ across the Korean Peninsula is host to a rich natural environment. Luxuriant. Flora and fauna exist in abundance, and ironically, for now, in peace. Not a great idea to go exploring in here because of the unexploded (or new) mines lying around. But the silence within the 38th parallel is awesome. Sounds of nature. Absolutely full of it.

At United Nations Command, Camp Bonifas, we had to sign an indemnity waiver form because we were in a "hostile area". Ummm...okay. Not the wisest thing to do. But hey, the form didn't ask for full name and passport number or even nationality. It simply required a signature that didn't necessary have to be my legitimate version. o_O In the auditorium, the lights dimmed and slides came on. The very young US Army soldier gave us a briefing about the history of the DMZ. No script; he had memorized the entire 20-minute presentation. On the way back, the tour bus screened the movie 'Joint Security Area'. Hurhurhur. Watched that years ago. It's the first Korean movie I've ever watched. A good one. Not as sappy as those drama serials that I've no interest in. I enjoyed Lee Byung-hun's acting, especially in psycho-thriller 'I Saw The Devil'.

Then led by another US Army soldier, we headed out to the blue buildings to look at DPRK's Panmungak, which is under construction now. As the tour and briefing went on, I tuned out and itched to surf for more info online, but Camp Bonifas jammed phone signals, so I had no data or voice connection on the mobile. Staring at them...I don't know, I feel...emotional. I hear the South preach messages of reunification with the North, and at the same time, reading about the South firing shots at DPRK's fishing boats seemingly deliberately pushing past the Northern Limit Line in the Yellow Sea. I can't even talk about Korea without splitting it into DPRK and the South. Both similar in terms of heritage, history, people, food and traditions, but so divided in terms of society, culture, government and political ideology.

Blanketed in mysterious canvas that made disturbing flaps each time the strong winds blow, the DPRK building Panmungak is currently under renovation/additional construction.