Naengmyeon (냉면)

I got my mul naengmyeon (cold noodles). Tried out many bowls of it across the city in eateries specializing in both North Korean and South Korean styles, in meat broth, fish and vegetarian. I don't fancy kim chi and gochujang, so I'm not fond of bibim naengmyeon. A pity the best mul naengmyeon is still made from the traditional beef broth (with MSG. Boo) I've yet to find a vegetarian or fish version that's just as good. They definitely exist. I can imagine that a pungent dashi and a sprinkling of moshio could rival beef stock, but I haven't gotten to any decent bowls. None as delicious currently exist in Singapore's Korean restaurants. :(

My favorite North Korean mul naengmyeon in Seoul is located at an unassuming shop in a little alley in Mapo-gu- Eulmildae (마포 을밀대). So glad that I declared my love for naengmyeon. Charming J remembered this store and brought us there for brunch. It's been around for decades and gets impossibly crowded at lunch, both in summer and winter. Go early at 11.15am before the lunch crush if you want to eat in peace. No, they don't speak English at the shop; go prepared with notes or photos.

The arrowroot noodles (called 'raengmyeon', 랭면, in North Korea) are darker in color than the usual buckwheat noodles, and personally, I find them tastier. Unfortunately, this version only rocks up in beef broth that isn't too salty. Yes, always cut up the noodles before attempting to slurp them up. We also had the bindaetteok, a mung bean pancake that was absolutely delicious. Most interesting that the eatery serves up a kettle of not salty beef broth, as hot 'tea', since the mains are going to be cold. This is going down as one of the best meals in Seoul. I slurped up every last bit of the generous portion of noodles.

Junked that piece of unappetizing beef.
The beauty of mul naengmyeon is in the broth, and to me, the noodles.

Eulmildae 마포 을밀대
147-6 Yeomni-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul.
(Daeheung Station, Line 6, Exit 2)
Tel: +82 02-717-1922