Hội An Ancient Town

I really don't like you very much, Hội An Ancient Town. Made up of a few narrow streets, the only vaguely interesting aspect is its architecture, which isn't that fascinating if you live in Asia and are familiar with Chinese buildings, and have visited small provinces and villages in China.

Majority of these buildings in Ancient Town have been turned into gaudy and insipid shops selling useless souvenirs, silver, pearls, trinkets, shoes, clothes and nonsense. The eateries aren't good either. A complete tourist trap. Get out of the area and go to the other parts of the city. It'd definitely be a much better experience.

Its newly established ticketing system imposes a VND120,000 entrance ticket just to enter the Ancient Town. (Details here and here.) Setting up an entrance fee is expected, but enforcing it is dicey. A ticket allows for multiple entry over a few days- exactly for how many days, that's arbitrary. It changes according to the mood of city authorities. Even setting up ticket booths and security officers to check, and allowing domestic tourists to pay a lower VND80,000 are normal procedures. What isn't pleasant, is to discover that the checkpoints aren't manned during rainy days and even stumble upong two entry points to the demarcated area that aren't policed. Importantly, one can only hope the fees collected truly contribute towards the preservation of the Town.

Hội An was known as Faifoo or Faifo. It's a Southeast Asian trading port that flourished from the 15th to 19th century. Sounds familiar eh? Before that, during the Cham Kingdom, it was the region's largest harbor. Chinese influences are huge because of Vietnam's tributary state back then, and its acceptance of refugees from the Ming Dynasty in the 1640s. Hội An's Chinese influence is mainly Hokkien, which explains why it especially reminds me of Xiamen (known as Amoy) in Fujian Province. Its Trieu Chau Assembly Hall translates into the Chaozhou Hall. There're also two other Assembly Halls from two other dialect groups- Quang Trieu (Cantonese) and Phuc Kien (Fukien/Fujian). Definitely felt like I was visiting provinces in southern China.

The 150-year old Quan Thang Ancient House seems to be still lived in by the present-day generation of the family. The matriarch sat by the house selling cigarettes and drinks, and the patriarch hung out indoors offering visitors to buy little souvenirs within and showed us his Singapore two-dollar note. These families/houses collected the coupons from the entrance ticket, which hopefully translates into reimbursements for them since they've opened their family homes to visitors. Same goes for Duc An Old House, which is more spacious and holds even better preserved furniture. It's an example of Hội An-style merchant architecture, which eerily holds the exact layout of a shophouse anywhere in Southeast Asia, especially a Peranakan-style house. Wood carvings and tile decorations include the usual peacocks and flowers.

Needless to say, after watching videos and flipping through photos of Huế, I decided it isn't worth the drive all the way. Bach Ma National Park will have to wait. Really not interested in the Nguyễn Dynasty that lasted from 1802 - 1945. Not even keen on it as the supposed origins of the áo dài. Don't feel like seeing more pagodas, temples, war sites or tunnels. Saw the photos and videos of the Huế Citadel, couldn't stop grinning. Tell me this Citadel and its surrounding buildings don't look familiar? Importantly, while I enjoy the region's spicy foods, I don't like bún bò Huế. Heeeeee. I'd do better re-visiting the highlands of Lâm Đồng Province, flying in via Đà Lạt. That city has little pork, more vegetarian food options and fantastic bánh căn with quail eggs.