Mỹ Sơn

Went to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Mỹ Sơn to see the atmospheric ruins of the spiritual centre of the ancient Chăm Empire. The one thing I really wanted to do on this trip. This completes my list of visiting Borobudur in Java, Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom in Siem Reap, Bagan (or Pagan) in Mandalay, and Ayutthaya off Bangkok.

Requested for an experienced guide because I didn't want the usual spiel, and he should be able to summarize key points without me gleaning it online faster than he could speak. Stopped by the Museum of Chăm Sculpture and the village of Trà Kiệu. The village used to be Singhapura (City of the Lion). Tickled by the name. Well, nothing remains of the old city. It's just another modern agrarian village now.

Nobody mentioned anything about the persecution of what's left of the Chăm who are recognized as minorities and marginalized since the fifteenth century. It isn't different from what the Khmer Rouge did in Cambodia. Apparently, property confiscation and incursions of the Chăm in Vietnam occurred as recent as in the past three years. We didn't mention anything about that either. Or the recent exodus of refugees to Australia, or the imprisonment and release of political blogger Ngyuen Van Hai. This is research that we quietly do. This isn't our country and I still don't know my country's position on civil society and politics, although, the idea of religious freedom here seems stilted. No matter what, these aren't topics to be openly discussed with the Vietnamese hosts who aren't our friends.

There were originally about 70 temples and towers built on the site from the 4th to the 15th century. But now, only 20 or so damaged structures remain. After so many wars, the historical site of Mỹ Sơn is mainly left in ruins. Already weakened by age, the ancient structures completely crumbled during the Vietnam War. Although international conservation efforts and funding are underway, again, to stabilize what's left, this is an impoverished region that has to consider threats of flooding as well as increased tourism. The structures held a haphazard format of old and new bricks. They stand, but the colors look strange. Trying to prevent the structures from collapsing is an uphill struggle. Forest growth lines the numerous bomb craters in the area. Do not wander off marked trails. There is a real possibility of stepping on unexploded land mines still hidden.

For quiet tranquility seen today in the site's rich history, the headless statues remind us of the implacable and inevitable cruel hands of fate and wars waged. Ideals, religions, politics, and winds of change whisper the rise and fall of regimes through the years, leaving the one ruler or government known to us at any one point of history. We can't change the past, but we could certainly try to shape the present and the future.