Saturday, October 01, 2022

Cheng's at Tiong Bahru Is Closing


Although the kitchen is still helmed by the matriarch (who likely oversees two assistants), Cheng's at 27 Yong Saik Street have seen their standards of food fluctuate through the years. The menu has changed here and there, and I think the prices are always adjusted, but they've always kept their Hainanese chicken chop and curry.

The eatery has been open in this location selling its chicken chop and curry since 1989. Come November 2022, it will be the close of a chapter. Cheng's is going to end its restaurant operations in November. They'll lease out the space to another eatery. They might keep a small dessert counter in the corner, and of course their online operations for chiffon cakes, tapioca kueh and of course their really good kaya. While I don't care about its kaya (and all kaya), I really don't mind its chiffon cakes in flavors of yuzu and strawberry.

In the recent years, many have raised eyebrows at the prices and smaller portions. Sure, they use healthier oils and quality ingredients, and basmati rice. But many aren't hot about the prices at what they perceive to be a 'local kopitiam'. Chicken chop and curry for $15? They would prefer a $9.90 at another stall for a bigger portion. I was a tad iffy 1.5 years ago when they presented a version of Hainanese chap chye to me for like $22 and it wasn't nice. Currently, the menu doesn't even state prices, so that doesn't inspire customers' confidence.  

The chicken chop is really nothing to scream about, but its accompanying Hainanese curry is thick and flavorful, and comes with two small pieces of potatoes. That curry is still the star. Thankfully the stir-fried bittergourd in black bean sauce with ikan toman ($15) was good, as was the broccoli with gingko nuts ($12). On many evenings, we round up the meal with a slice of cake.

I really don't mind Cheng's current menu and its homecooked flavors; the kitchen truly goes easy on salt and oil. A few of us definitely prefer these smaller portions that are much more coherent to share between two people or three small eaters, and nothing goes to waste. We welcome the steamed white rice in the form of basmati too; nobody eats that much rice. TBH, the eatery's food works for us. We like having a casual dinner at Cheng's.  

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