Bella Vedere

The weekends are too lovely to stay in the city. It ought to be spent just outside in the sun. We went out to Yarra Valley, again. Heeee. After breakfast at Giant Steps & Innocent Bystander, we lingered around the cheese and dairy farms and some more wineries. Then we drove onwards to Bella Vedere for a feel of the countryside, and for a taste of that fresh produce and easy living.

The man had sweetbreads- lamb's brains. AHHHH! When the man picked up a spoonful and pushed it towards me, I closed my mouth tightly and shook my head vehemently. As cooked and lovingly grilled the plate looked, it was still eeeeeks! There was a salad of ox tongue that was nicely done. The man is doing a meat binge on this trip!!

I didn't bother having a main since the stomach was still stuffed from breakfast. The hand-cut fries done with duck fat with accompanying anchovy mayonnaise was irresistible and those were very satisfying for lunch. I gave in and had a glass of chardonnay with the meal.

It was a hot day with little breeze. Not a good idea to be wandering about. Sitting indoors, it very relaxing afternoon to stare out into the blue and green. We're flying home soon; soaking up the last few views of all this natural beauty is a must.

At The Galleries

Every major arty farty building is centrally located downtown. Nothing is more than a quick 15-minute walk in this nice weather. As much as I frown upon Disney's fairy tales, I wanted to see ACMI's exhibition 'Dreams Come True' for the animated works. I put aside the disdain for the princesses and women in the tales and looked at the hard work of the cartoonists and illustrators. A pity I missed ACMI's winter headliner of Tim Burton's works, storyboards and dark gothic tales.

We continued to the 2 buildings of the National Gallery of Victoria- Australian and International.The curated works of Gustave Moreau are disturbing. I've never gravitated towards him because of how he portrays females in his paintings. Brilliance notwithstanding, Moreau's fixation on the 'Eternal Feminine' is a disturbing single-minded focus. Like what the man said, "This man has issues." Yea, you don't say! Moreau was radical of his time in terms of evoking controversy and brushstrokes. I admire the fire and color in his paintings as they brought to life the stories of the alluring women. The collections in the Asian and European galleries upstairs are more placid and agreeable.

I'm glad we also saw the works in 'Unnerved - The New Zealand Project'. It gave us a chance to see contemporary Kiwi art from another perspective. I mean, all I know of it are the fascinating Maori tattoos, seriously. Multimedia artist Lisa Reihana's 'Digital Marae' and portrayal of Maori gods and goddesses in film and digital media is compelling.

Feeling refreshed and inspired, we carried on and strolled across to State Library of Victoria to view the Australian illustrators and their beautifully illustrated books for children. I have a soft spot for these books, and while I might not like all the little tales in them, I like their soft pastels, colors and drawings. Very nice.

Day Out Looking At Buildings

I like looking at the architecture of a city. Sydney doesn't have many of these older Victorian buildings and art deco facades. But in Melbourne, you see them everywhere. Conservation is a big thing going on here and it's a constant fight to preserve these historic buildings.

The churches in the city and at the countryside still ooze culture, history and old world charm. Of course we went to see the county courts and supreme court. They're just right there out of the town centre at Flagstaff Gardens. If you walk to Queen Victoria Market from town, you'll probably come across the small and compact Hellenic Museum which used to be the Royal Mint.

Then you get the breathtaking modernity of the Melbourne Theatre Company and Recital Centre making their stamp on the city. Quite a good contrast to the other quaint buildings. As one walk on, one feels the vibe and energy of the city throb. To me, Melbourne feels more pleasant than the business-like fast-paced Sydney. People seem a little more relaxed here.

What I really like are these Victorian homes! Some stand empty, some are occupied, and some have been restored beautifully, but many are also decrepit but most are not totally restored to any sort of glory. I can't imagine the sheer amount of effort and resources an individual owner will have to put in for renovations and strengthening of structures, not to mention plumbing, re-wiring of electrical cables and heating. But these antiquated homes are quite lovely to see.

Amanda Palmer At The Forum

You know the one artist I really really really go gaga over is Amanda Palmer. When I was juggling all those travel dates and missed her Sydney gig and had to buy tickets to the Melbourne gig, I was just praying like mad to be able to get to the gig instead of having to chase her around Oz. Finally. I was thrilled to catch her intimate ninja gig in Singapore in 2009 and have been plotting to catch a full length show proper. It has never happened, till tonight! Amanda Palmer at The Forum in Melbourne!

The old theatre is the perfect setting for a show. Cabaret's dark mistress meshed the coy sounds with rock, punk and folk, she's a showgirl, an absolute performer, and a stunning singer with the vocals to blow you away. She had guests- Kim Boekbinder, The Jane Austen Argument, Jason Webley, Mikelangelo and the Tin Star.

The people on stage were brilliant, talented, and no less sterling. But of course tonight, Amanda Palmer ruled the stage with charisma and honesty. She's on tour, on form and in her element. She rocked up with old favorites, covered The Postal Service's 'Such Great Heights', did new songs from 'Amanda Palmer Goes Down Under'. The song 'Map of Tasmania' is hilarious! Everyone hung on to her words and enjoyed her banter with the audience. Such good rapport. I shouted, waved, danced, spun around 11 times looking at my right forefinger up in the air. There was this buzz after the last encore. After the gig, I skipped and hopped all the way home in the rain.

Amanda Palmer SLAYED Melbourne. TOTALLY.

The Undertaker Restaurant

Since we were loitering in the Burwood area, dinner was sorted out at The Undertaker Restaurant. It's a charming historical building with beginnings as the name suggests- an undertaker, followed by a sales office before standing empty and then converted to this dining establishment.

I think this is a burger and meat sort of place. The man's Hellenic burger of a minced lamb leg lightly spiced with oregano, cumin dressing and tahini, grilled vegetables and eggplant, won his immediate approval. He loved it. The rest of the meats and burgers on the menu looks fabulous. I eyeballed every plate of it coming out of the kitchen. They looked good. I had a pasta and wasn't at all impressed. At A$26 for the canestrini tossed with roast summer vegetables and herbs, it was tasty and light. However, this being Melbourne, and in the right season, I had expected a more generous allocation of vegetables. It was disappointingly meagre.

No matter, we had plenty of beer and ale. The relatively low prices of alcohol in the city (compared to home) make it up for a lot of stuff. The bar offers plenty of choices of Australian and imported beer. It's a quite a popular place for drinks and it remans opens late into the night.

At The Whisky Bar

We've not been to the distilleries in Scotland together, and that is a trip both the man and I want to take. The scenery and whisky will all be stunning. A pity that we can't make the trip with the friends this May. SIGH. We'll make do with what we can wherever we are then.

We've had enough of wine, clearly. I get grouchy if no whisky come my way. So for the recent meals, beer and whisky have showed up very often. We chilled out at Baranows Lounge and had many drams of good whisky.

I had a light Edradour 10y.o that is straight from the cask. The man was intrigued by the Elements of Islay. He picked out Laphroaig's LP1 and Lagavulin's LG2 to taste. The LG2 is almost sweet and oaty, but with a lingery fiery aftertaste. It was well accompanied by the LP1 which bears a deep smoke. Then, there're the rare bottles of Port Ellen that we simply had to try a dram of because with the closure of the distillery, these expressions are not in production and whatever is left, is floating around the collectors' cellars.

We had a taste of the newest Islay distillery- Kilchoman. Its 2.y.o is young and almost flat. The 4y.o is surprisingly peaty, with a lot of promise when it matures into an 8y.o. The bartender clearly knew his whiskies. He was very engaging and introduced us to Tasmanian whisky as well as the Australian non chill-filtered Bakery Hill single cask classic and peated expressions. Quite nice.

There was an intense discussion about up and coming distilleries outside of Scotland. The warmer climate in these areas mean that whisky mature faster and a young expression will taste richer than its year. We agreed on the point that whisky is turning contemporary and many of the younger expressions between 8 to 10 years could match a 12 y.o or even 15 y.o in terms of nose and taste, but perhaps not the complexity and aftertaste.

Screamfeeder At The Tote

Okay, even if you're not familiar with the gig scene in Oz, you must know that gigs are usually held at tiny venues at certain hotels with standing room only. These hotels are not your 4 or 5-stars outfits. They're quite like backpacker joints and are mostly known for being iconic indie gig venues than accommodation for the accidental tourist.

I was thrilled that Screamfeeder played at The Tote Hotel. It meant that I could visit this famous gig venue! The almost 30-year old Tote was shut down because of an increase in liquor licensing rates and whatever other controls the government imposed. MANY many people were upset, and unlike other placid citizenry, these people did not stand by and do nothing. They staged a peaceful protest to register a point. The protests blew up a huge storm in Collingwood which resulted in the re-opening of the Tote. YAYYY! True to its character, there was nary any sort of renovation done to it, and it's still as stuffy, crummy and full of flavor.

Along with 2 other opening bands, Screamfeeder travelled down to Tote to play the night. It was a good night out. Classic rock. Melodious indie rock. There were no fancy pedals or sleek gadgets. Screamfeeder played a stripped-down set which didn't compromise on the sound. The man grew up on an assortment of Screamfeeder's songs. He loves that they're melodic yet aggressive, packing in clever lyrics and depth to the music. I only learnt of them recently and quite like their simple and basic commitment to the music. Well, I bought a tee lor. Heh.

Pub Grub

Dinner at the suburbs of Fitzroy was true-blue pub grub. We went into the pub of Rochester Castle Hotel. It isn't a fancy place. It's not your fashionable chic joint. It's plain, honest and simple.

I was pleased with my super oily and unhealthy dinner of fish (hake) and chips with fat yak beer batter. I asked just to be sure they didn't spell flake wrongly with a 'h' and without the 'l'. How terrible does that sound? Heh. It was absolutely satisfying and I really missed chilli sauce and sambal. Grrrrr.

We earlier parked and walked halfway to a traffic light where the friends were waiting along the streets. Good timing we had. We probably screamed the shops down when we spotted the friends and ran gave hugs all around. We didn't bother catching any disapproving eye.

The friends are in Melbourne for the weekend and we were glad to know that the floods didn't affect them too badly at home in Brisbane. The man's known them for years. I only met them when they hopped in and out of Singapore, and when we managed to hook up in London. We haven't seen them for a bit. It was a hoot catching up.

Tim Rogers' Saligia At The SpeigelTent

We caught Tim Rogers (of You and I, and The Temperance Union) in his cheeky presentation of a cabaret-styled show of Saligia. Based on the Seven Deadly Sins, Saligia reflects Tim Rogers' personal and tongue-in-cheek thoughts about them. There's conversation and there're the songs. As Tim took us through the sins and told little dark stories about it, the lyrics which followed in the songs are hilarious.

Backed up by a wonderful 6-piece band which included a violin, cello and double-bass, the show delivered a wicked irreverent sort of fun. Melanie Robinson who also co-wrote the songs, was mesmerizing on the cello, with a song of her own. The harmonies she did with Tim Rogers' falsetto were almost discordant, but stirring.

The show had no theatrics or flamboyance. The lyrics, songs and wit were the winners for the night. Rushing in for the 6.30pm performance, it was a pleasant way to chill out for the earlier part of the evening. It's not so bad being back in the city. It's quite vibrant and enchanting this way.

Timboon Railway Shed Distillery

We drove fast within speed limit, but slowed to take in the sights. The pastoral scenes are so beautiful. I can't even fathom how I could own a property of so many acres and the idea of maintenance feels tiring already. It's really a different sort of lifestyle. People don't lock their doors here very much. I don't get it totally. But I can understand why people fall in love with Australia so easily, pack up and move here in a heartbeat.

We hopped into Port Campbell for a quick lunch and practically ran out because we were looking forward to the afternoon's programme and wanted to start it as soon as possible. We went to the Timboon Railway Shed Distillery! Eh, it's not just alcohol okay. It offers a rail trail. We didn't do the full 34km. But we did a good 5 to 8 km walk past the Curdie River Trestle Bridge. Hehehehehheheheeh. It's a definite motivation because there's whisky and nibbles waiting for us at the end of the walk.

I was giggling like a little child. WHISKY! FINALLY! Do you have any idea of how much I miss it? Even though there's a bottle of Dalwhinnie 15 y.o in the room, I hunger for a sip of other flavors. In a single cask, the Timboon single malt is a 3y.o. It's rather sweet, and easy on the palate. In a hotter climate, a 3y.o tastes remarkably older than its Scottish cousins would. This one is young, malty and cereal-like, extremely ideal on a sunny afternoon.

Poor man had to drive, so he could only sample a dram and no more. I went on and on, but not overboard! We considered buying a bottle home, but didn't do so. It's interesting enough here, but not layered enough to warrant my love. It's a good pit-stop before we head back to the city.

The Apostles

There're much better photos of the Apostles floating around the intarwebs. But you get the picture. The GPS is programmed to an optimal route which gives you breathtaking sights of the ocean. Viewing spots thoughtfully carved out along the route reminds you of how majesty the ocean is, and how fragile it is now that we've gouged out many of her treasures.

Driving along the route reminds us of how humans toil long and hard to build civilization in the harsh lands, and how we strive to protect it. Parallel to the route are plenty of national parks which will hopefully protect the environment for generations to enjoy for years to come. The pastoral scenes were equally glorious. So suaku, but our jaws still dropped in marvel at the vast expanse of space and land. We stopped by the Cape Otway Lighthouse, tiptoed into random farms to stare at cows, horses and sheep.

The long and winding drive along The Great Ocean Road more or less culminates as the first Apostle comes into sight. There're 8 Apostles left, after some of the other stacks crumbled. We've seen it separately twice before, via helicopter and by simply driving to the cliffs. Now, we see it a third time with a smooth drive and lots of fun memories stashed away. Wind in our hair with the sun overhead, the roar of the surf and that calming blue which stretches to the edge of the horizon....those were carefree moments. The coastline is ever-changing, so we must catch a couple of glimpses before we get too old with creaky bones and can't drive down to see these magnificent formations of nature.

The Bottle Of Milk At Lorne

Let's make it clear- we didn't stop at Lorne just for coffee. It was for a sleep and to wander around in a real forest. In fact, I didn't read up anything about Lorne except to find a decent place to rest a night. I wanted to stay in a treehouse! But it was full. :( I had to settle for a budget room that was big, but wasn't at all thrilling, and frankly, quite crummy. Anyway, every other hotel there is just like a budget venue. I should have just pitched a tent within Otway National Park and stuck my ass there.

There're some pretty B & Bs and standalone cottages and properties. The only catch- these require a minimum stay of 3 nights, non-negotiable. Sigh. I wasn't going to pay 3 nights just for a pretty room for 6 hours. We had hot water and clean sheets in this one, so that would suffice. There was no wifi. Dammit. Luckily we've a data plan on the phones and iPad. In the night, I caught up on all the news about Christchurch and the ongoing rescue efforts, stared at the sea and wondered if tsunami warnings will sound for the coastal towns of Victoria.

In the morning, we wandered down to town at the main street of Mountjoy Parade. Led purely by the smell of coffee at the cafes alone, I pointed to The Bottle Of Milk and said, "I want this one." The man was sold on the idea of burgers. Apparently, the burger that he ordered was damn good. I had a Big Breakfast instead of a vegetarian Bg Breakfast just so that he could have my very juicy looking strips of bacon. I had 2 hash browns! Joy!

That cup of flat white I had, was very decent. Another cup was ordered. I was really happy. What a surprise find in this sleepy (For now. It won't be so come summer) seaside town that still carries traces of a recent past where the ladies hang out by the beach in skirts and parasols.

Marks Restaurant

A late dinner while it's still light is quite welcome. I was ravenous and needed to replenish some of the calories lost. Marks Restaurant is a pleasant break along the main street of Lorne on Louttit Bay. I'm glad we caught the lull in the holiday season while the weather is still good. I'd hate to be in this town during spring break or when there're thousands of revellers during Christmas summer. Eeeeeks.

The man chomped down on the twice-cooked duck. The serving was half a duck, but it was a big one! It looked deceptively simple, but it was done well as all good cooking should. The color and the smell were just right. The man stated that the gamey taste of the meat didn't overwhelm and parts of the skin were crispy and the meat still locked in the moisture. He noted that it wasn't a fatty duck. Well, if these ducks are free range and run about like those I saw at Yarra Valley, then I don't expect them to be very fatty..... Heeeee.

I'm absolutely in love with the pasta of mussels tossed in garden vegetables, chilli, onions and olive oil. It was light, tasty and satisfying. I'm almost ready to call this my best meal, or rather dish on this trip. It's quite interesting to note that at each cafe or restaurant in Lorne, even at the burger joints, there's an extensive menu catered for vegetarians. Nice! Naturally, they all boast of using local produce and ingredients, which are frankly fresh and very tasty. The organic and free-range bits are taken for granted, although some restaurants will state it clearly, along with the sources.

I Don't Like Cockatoos

We're driving down the coast to the Great Ocean Road. The man wanted to see the 12 Apostles (again) because they're crumbling, head to Port Campbell for a bit before rounding back to the city. The man has to take the decision because he's the only driver. I won't be able to help him in any way. It's very very hard for me to stay awake during long drives. In fact, the moment I step into a car for a ride more than 20 minutes, I fall asleep. Well, the man decided that he could do it. So off we went.

After an early morning pit-stop at Anglesea and a big day out at Otway Ranges, we needed to re-charge with a beer first! No more wine please!!! We hopped into some hotel with a rooftop terrace at Lorne. There were plenty of birds flying around. I simply assumed they were seagulls and some black and white seabirds, so didn't pay them any attention.

Then, one landed at the railing next to me. I stared at it. It's a wild sulphur crested cockatoo. I looked further. My goodness. They're everywhere on the beachfront of Lorne! I've finally found something that's more annoying than pigeons- cockatoos! They squawked, made so much noise and boldly waddled near humans to ask for food. And SOME DODO at the next table thought it was too cute, and walked up to one to give it a piece of bread. Another followed suit with a piece of potato chip. WAH LAU EH. Didn't anyone tell these people NOT to feed these birds with our garlic bread and processed salty potato chips?!

You can guess what happened next. Of course another cockatoo innocently sauntered along. A third flew in to join the ruckus. A fourth clearly thought it was a good idea too. By the time the fifth and sixth came along, I leapt out of the bench in a big hurry and went to the other side. At the final count, there were eight big flapping cockatoos perched around the rooftop, trying to score food or picking at scraps left on the empty plates left aside. The man was highly amused and took out his phone to grab photos.

Paradise, Almost

When I scrolled through the photos, I realized the man had sneakily took a shot of me in an undignified mid-stretch in the morning before we headed out for our separate itinerary. He went out for a light walk and to play with the cat; I went riding in the meadows.

To move his limbs, the man likes his hotel gym. Otherwise, he says he's stuck with doing prison workouts in the room or something. Push-ups and whatnots. But I take walks with him around the estate. It's such cool weather. It'd be a pity not to walk. Wherever possible, we put the car aside and walk. We can't cycle though, otherwise we might attempt to do so, but not on the main roads. The traffic along Maroondah Highway that links all wineries and main streets of Yarra Valley is quite heavy. We won't be able to negotiate that traffic on bicycles.

We even watched Perry Bros Circus set up camp and tent at the field between Healesville and Kinglake Road. On the way to Phillip Island, we saw Slivers Circus with its bright yellow tent at South Gippsland Highway (next to Settlement Hotel), Cranbourne. It's such a hoot because growing up in Singapore, I've never seen a circus travel and set-up in reality, only those that I read about in books.

After Singapore and Shanghai, I can't stand being in Melbourne city anymore, and would really like some green. Luckily, we've places to drive out to. This is, perfect. Nearly, paradise. Green, lots and lots of neverending green. I brought walking shoes and riding boots! Plenty of trails to explore. It's super windy, but not that bitingly cold. A windbreaker, not wool, does a better job of keeping me snug in this climate. For this reason, I love jackets made with Gore-Tex.

The man and I have been to Yarra Valley, separately, countless of times, but never together. Each time, there's something new and something old and familiar about the place. So this trip, we're checking out new sights together. Time is flying by, and it's painful to feel it pass so fast. I'm treasuring every moment. It's a luxury to watch the sun rise and wait for it to ease into the velvety darkness.

Gracedale, Yarra Valley

Along with their cat Simba, the husband and wife team of Richard and Jenny have created an elegant and cosy home, and B & B- Gracedale in Yarra Valley.

Perched atop a hill, it overlooks acres and acres of green fields. Watch the kangeroos, cattle, ducks and whatnots. There is so much serenity here that it's inspiring. If I'm in the sort of mood to change mindsets about things, I guess I could begin doing that here.

It's amazing how Richard and Jenny handle everything on their own, from cooking our breakfasts, to cleaning the rooms and maintaining the property. It's among the best B & Bs I've seen. From the Villeroy & Boch cutlery and utensils to the Sheridan bedlinen, Country Road towels, heated bathroom floors, Yamaha speakers and audio set, carefully laid out books for us, and oh, a heavy sturdy Remington hairdryer, the little touches speak volumes about the owners' impeccable taste and thoughtful consideration for their guests.

It feels like staying with friends. I automatically cleared my own plates and glasses after breakfast. :P Please note that this is not an advertisement. Neither is it a barter thingy, nor have the owners given us a discount or freebies. I truly enjoy this sojourn at Gracedale. Of course, I stress that if you'd like to stay with them, please give the owners utmost consideration in not messing up your suite or make unreasonable demands on them. While they're in the hospitality business, it doesn't quite work like how a hotel is managed. Anyway, if you know me, you'll know the sort of expectations I have with regards to accommodation. So along with many other favored B & Bs in other countries, Gracedale meets every one of mine.

Gracedale offers just 2 suites, i.e. for 2 couples at any one time. So any of you planning to head to Melbourne next month for the food and wine festival and would like a sanctuary at some point, check with Gracedale on their availability. You'll have a higher chance of securing accommodation during the weekdays.

At Domaine Chandon

We went down the list and trudged through many wineries. The man isn't a big fan of wine either, so I wonder what's the fascination. It's probably because he just wants the knowledge and information about the area. So dutifully, I tag along. I love the vibe and all. But when it comes to tastings, we share a one-person A$5 portion simply because I don't appreciate vino enough.

The ears perked up when we turned into Domaine Chandon. The vista across its vineyards is stunning. I'm here for the sparkling! Yay! I demanded my own tasting portions, but chose to skip the wines, stealing sips from the man. The tapas at its GreenPoint Brasserie went really well with the sparkling. Hehh.

Honestly, I'm not fond of its wine at all. But what do I know about it? However, I do know that the versions of sparkling are quite classic, and quite typical of their parent French heritage. The Vintage Brut 2008 is crisp and clean. However, my vote goes to the Vintage Blanc de Blancs 2006. We had a crate delivered to our hosts by way of thanks. Nothing for us. This isn't my favorite champagne house. I'm not bothered to sneak bottles of anything home. It's the same concept as the pirated dvds. I've never bought them home from overseas and will not start. If I want it, I'll find another way to ship bottles of wine home, payable taxes included.

The few items I bought are in small quantity and needn't be shipped. :) You can easily guess what they are. We oohed and ahhed over them a fair bit. People come here to buy wines. But for us, this is turning out to be yet another major grocery trip.

TarraWarra Museum Of Art

I was getting a tad tired of all the wineries. I love the vineyards because they're beautiful, although the end products don't hold my attention at all. It's not my to-go drink. But I brightened up at the look of TarraWarra Estate because the cosy privately funded but publicly managed TarraWarra Museum of Art is right there.

Before we stepped into the main hall, the man was very taken by Robert Jacks' "Edge Red" and "Four Edge White". He circled the 2 installations and marveled at how infinity is depicted. If we had our other friends here, he would be seeing the art in terms of Math equations.

This round, the man was more fascinated by the current exhibition of quintessentially Australian Brett Whiteley's works titled 'Connections'. I understand the methods of the artist of course, but I was a little lost amidst the modern interpretations, abstraction and figuration. The man stood before "Self Portrait In The Studio (1976)" for a good 15 minutes. "Meta, meta..." he kept repeating. He whipped out his iPhone and googled for information about the installations and art pieces all throughout. I stifled laughter when another visitor walked up to him and asked how much he paid for the audio guide.

The one piece by Brett Whiteley that I found interesting is "I Like Matches (1985)"- 2 giant matches that stand on a white rectangular base and made of wood, plaster and synthetic polymer. I like it so much that the man insisted on buying me the brooch. I'm quite the sucker for spin-off products from museum collections. Each time I look at the a collection, beyond the history and ripple effects of the audience, I instantly think of marketing angles and product 'placement'. Heh.

The quick pop-in to the gallery greatly boosted the ahemmm....spirits (pun intended) for a tasting at TarraWarra Estate's cellar door where I didn't mind its 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir and 2006 Reserve Chardonnay and bought a couple of bottles to last for the next few days. Not to be drunk by me of course, but by the man and the friends!

Dinner At Healesville Hotel

Sunset was quietly glorious. At dusk, we drove out to dinner and was very taken by all the green around us. I can't find enough words to describe the immense serenity evoked and the tranquility that wraps itself like a comforting warm shawl around me. Magnificent.

Being city folks, it feels almost strange to hear the near silence in the night, except for the sound of nature, animals and insects at dusk. As we drove very slowly at 40km/h, birds and ducks flew across our path. We understood that there would be the occasional kangaroo; we should keep our eye out for it.

I was so full that I couldn't stomach anymore food or alcohol. At the bar of the quaint and historical Healesville Hotel, dinner was sorted out. We were tickled to see Singapore chilli crabs on the current menu for Thursdays. It was so random! But we didn't ask why and how it came to be listed. It was a dish of salt and pepper squid for me, and a porterhouse steak for the man. Food was simple, and excellent. Again, the freshness and quality of the ingredients shone through.

At Yarra Valley

I was a little restless. I didn't come to Melbourne to stay in the city. A quick conversation and a couple of online clicks later, we decided that the rest of the trip will be spent out at Yarra Valley.

It rained all morning, but cleared up, and the sun is shining through. I'm not here for the wine. In fact, I don't even like wine very much. It gives me a headache. I'm here for the views and the generally relaxing pace of lifestyle with no big rush for timing and whatnots.

Our suite overlooks this panorama of green. Miles and miles of beautiful lush land stretch from end of end and undulating fields appear in a surreal fashion. Watching the cows graze is almost fascinating. When the weather permits tomorrow or day after, I'm going riding. As I blog and sip from the whisky glass, there's a genuinely happy smile on the face. You know, like how happiness is felt from the bottom of one's toes.

I've befriended with the adorable resident cat at the estate. He's very very sweet and is always up for cuddles and play. When I stepped out of the car and saw him, I dropped all bags and strolled nearer. Then he rolled over and indicated 'play'! Staying in to read and chill is such a luxury. Neil Young and Neko Case are on the stereo. And oh blasphemy in wine county, I bring an easy Dalwhinnie 15y.o to accompany me through the days. :)

Giant Steps & Innocent Bystander

We're not big wine lovers, and narrowed the tastings to pinot noir and chardonnay. Our first stop at Yarra Valley was a relatively young winery- Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander. We settled on a bottle of rather robust Tarraford Vineyard 2008 Pinot Noir to go with lunch.

Imho, the food is outstanding, along with its FABULOUS flat white, breads, cakes and desserts. Upon stepping in, I stood there like a little girl in fairyland, inhaling all the smells, listening to the sounds and bustle.

Hurrah for free and fast wifi at the winery! The man was totally in love with his chicken liver pate. He relished every last bit of it. There, there was the wonderfully done pumpkin pizza with barrel-aged feta, walnuts on top of a garlic base and finished with sage. There was pumpkin and red lentil dhaal, duck and mushroom pie with carrot mash. Ahhhhhh. We lingered over food, wine and coffee. That coffee. Wow. I had 2 cups of flat white.

I looked up and giggled- these signs are really cool. By the end of lunch, I was definitely in a food coma of sorts. Not on the wine because I controlled that strictly. The man was driving, so he was very disciplined and had just a glass of wine there. We took the bottle back to continue drinking in the suite. I had no breakfast, so the stomach was stuffed to the brim at lunch. It was probably a caffeine-induced coma.

Exploring Phillip Island

Being immersed in nature on the walking trails during this cool weather was just awesome. Years ago I visited; now there're new eateries, but by and large, it's kept its unique charm, tranquility and slow pace of development. A positive trend.

I didn't want to hug no koalas! Visiting Australia as a young girl had me go gaga over koalas in every other state. I'm quite done with koalas. Something else please. I hooted with laughter when I read that the fairy penguins of Phillip Island have been renamed to a politically correct 'little penguins'. Whatever! I'm still going to call them fairy penguins because I know them as such!

The wind was up. Even though I was in wool and a handy windbreaker, it was damn cold waiting for the cute tiny things to show at dusk. I should have had the foresight to bring heat packs! It's still kinda late summer, so the sun sets at 8.30pm thereabouts. Sitting on a mat to wait and wait without being able to pee was quite torturous. Lots of calories were definitely burnt off in trying to keep in body heat. I should have taken the skybox instead of braving it out on the sand! But seeing the tiny tots waddling around was absolutely priceless.

The Foreshore At Rhyll

We stopped for lunch at The Foreshore Bar and Restaurant. Facing the sea, it was a very pretty sunshiny sort of place. It filled up fast with the lunch crowd. The one thing we didn't order was its mussels. We saw bowls and bowls of huge Tasmanian mussels parade out of the kitchen and smelt heavenly. But we had no more space after our mains. The man had oysters for starters and didn't feel like eating more.

I forgot that Australian restaurants use flake for most of their battered fish and chips (some use barramundi). So I merrily ordered fish and chips. It wasn't till the second bite then the taste and texture hit me. The server confirmed that it was flake. ARRRRRGGGGH!!!! :((( I'm NOT going to eat any part of a shark. I like sharks. I really prefer fish and chips to come in plaice or haddock. So I ate up the salad and the fat chips which were very tasty dipped in tartare sauce, and stole pasta and bits of salmon off the man's plate.

Next time, I'm sticking grilled fish. The restaurants offer satisfactory options done beautifully. That said, fish and chips without Lingham's sweet chilli sauce are simply lacking in a robust flavor!

At The Vineyards

It was an easy morning drive to Phillip Island. The weather wasn't great though. Cloudy, rainy, sunny, cloudy and more clouds rolled in along with the wind. A slight drizzle ended with the close of the day, then it held cloudy for the evening. We didn't care. It was still going to be fun!

The vineyards, wineries and cellar doors on Phillip Island are quietly charming, without the usual hordes of humans on the weekends. I was so taken by the picturesque surroundings that I forgot about my ineptness with wine. I'm so lousy with it that I get an instant headache after 3 tiny glasses. Today, I got so carried away that contents of a good 6 large glasses went into the stomach. FAIL.

I keep doing this! Remind me never never never to drink more than 2 glasses of wine in an hour. I felt very uncomfortable. No headache, but the stomach was queasy. I came back to the room, and promptly induced the puking-out of all remnant wine. Eeeks.

Noi Thai

I don't usually raise eyebrows at prices of food. I'm the sort who'll merrily pay for any (except the celebrity chefs) restaurant in London. Although I think the atas chicken rice at a certain hotel in Singapore is grossly over-rated and over-priced. Sydney isn't expensive either. But I see that Melbourne prices are quite different, on the average. I sputtered in mild shock at the bill of A$70 for dinner at Noi Thai.

It was just a casual eatery serving Thai street food. The 2 of us had 4 dishes of calamari, tom yam soup with prawns, stir-fried beef in basil and beans and a vegetarian green curry. We didn't have any drinks at all. The redeeming points- the ingredients were good, vegetables were plentiful and crunchy. They didn't tone down on the spices in the tom yam yung. Generous servings. We had rice. Did I mention that our usual Thai jasmine rice is A$2.50 per person? The little pot contained enough for 2 hungry adult males.

I now understand why all other tables of 2 diners only ordered a maximum of 3 dishes. It wasn't a rip-off, but it was pricey. And Noi Thai serves the rough sort of street food, mind you, not the delicate Thai cuisine in a fine-dining setting.

I haven't been to Melbourne in 10 years, so inflation is to be expected. People probably say the same about Singapore. But I just flew in from Shanghai which is like wayyy cheaper. So this is kinda a little jolt to the system. From a scan of online menu prices and reviews, dining out is going to be a pricey affair, satisfaction not guaranteed. The next tier will be very weird restaurants in Chinatown, fast food and pies. In this case, I very much rather splash out on say, Cutler and Co.

Swervedriver At The Corner

The man was all excited about catching Swervedriver who took a hiatus in 1999 and re-formed in 2008. He grabbed the tickets first thing he learnt of that gig in Melbourne. So while I peered hard at the map in a hard copy, he programmed the GPS to take us to the iconic gig venue at Corner Hotel.

I've learnt not to be suspicious of gig venues overseas. If anything, the security is good. Nobody wants trouble and so long it's not a full scale music fest or a punk rock act (think Rage Against The Machine during Big Day Out 2008), no one's going to step on my toes or poke my ribs.

We somehow managed to catch the opening bands- one of which was good, and the other was shite before the headliners came on. We chugged bottles and bottles of cold beer. Then it grew really hot and suffocating. The venue was packed out. Ugh. I don't understand why gig venues are always stuffy. Just before the encore, we inched towards the exit for better air.

Good Morning Melbourne

Traded in the winter wool for summer cotton and light cardigans. Out went the red, grey and black. Into the suitcase went the beige, white and browns. I've hopped from a Mandarin-speaking city into an English-speaking city and from tail of winter into the end of summer.

Packing for winter was easy. I just lugged the whole suitcase of dry-cleaned stuff along with 2 pairs of warm boots for stomping all over the city for 2 weeks. I've only got that many winter clothing. Choosing clothes for summer is tough. I'm very used to living in the tropics with fierce indoor air-conditining. I brought 4 pairs of shoes. Go figure.

I was so disappointed that the crappy plane with the lousy Krisworld on the way home from Shanghai didn't offer 'The Girl Who Kicked The Hornets' Nest'. The option was available on the way up earlier, but I chose sleep, thinking that I could watch it on the way back. So the first thing I did after settling into the seat on the midnight flight to Melbourne was to find out if the film was showing. It was! PHEWWWW. I'd really loathe to have missed it. It completes the series.

Melbourne greeted us with bright and sunny skies. Windy at a lovely 22°C. Can't say I miss Shanghai's grey and dreary cold! Already, the flat whites are fabulous. I don't have a fixed itinerary. This is a city where we've plenty of friends, separately. Lots of catching up to do as well. I suppose we'll take a drive out to the wine yards next week. Our zippy little car will take us around, but I will have to do all the navigation. I don't trust the GPS or GoogleMaps. I'm grabbing a hard copy of the city map to stare at it and 'feel' the roads. The man cannot be left alone with the GPS.

Bye Shanghai!

It's been a lively 2 weeks in Shanghai! I could have done more. But my intention isn't to pack as many things as possible. It's to spend time with the BFF as if we're in Singapore, Hong Kong and Australia. Whichever the country, there shouldn't be too much difference in terms of lifestyle, but to welcome shared experiences.

Years ago, my jaw dropped when the BFF announced she was moving to China. I was like, 'You're going to die there!' But she's doing well, and has adapted better than I thought. And I'm most pleased her Mandarin is damn good now. She can swear like a local and has learnt how to get around Chinese idiosyncracies. The stories are hilarious. Could I live in this city even with the friends around? I can't. I salute them for having the spunk and grit to make it their home for a few years. As a tourist, do I like the city? I'll be honest and say yes, I like Shanghai. There's something mesmerizing about it.

We spent alot of time out, and an equal amount of chilling indoors in front of the tv, our respective laptops, and laughing at youtube videos, fb updates and whatnots. The last thing I want is for the BFF to have to re-arrange her schedules majorly around my preferences and consideration. Only because it's the BFF that I don't mind invading her lovely apartment to stay in one of the rooms. I won't do this with another friend, and especially not the Aunts, unless that apartment is mine to use for the duration. It's a fair bit of trouble having house guests, especially if you aren't sure of their daily habits, practices and living preferences.

During this sojourn in Shanghai, I've had pockets of solitude and independence. The rest of the time, I've been pampered, spoilt and well-taken care of. I miss having the BFF around and the time we've spent together is unforgettable and precious. All too soon, it's time to leave. The quick journey to the airport was tinged with sadness and I go home with a truckload of memories to hold dear.

放鞭炮

Since it was still the lunar new year (元宵节), the friends bought bags of firecrackers and we headed out to light some fires. While commercial fireworks are impressive and breathtaking, they've lost that magic for me. But I suppose in China during the period of Lunar New Year, we've got to get some boom going.

We had boxes of the type where it shoots 10 metres up into the sky where they burst into streaks of colored light and sparks. We lined them up properly along the street. Under the full moon, I lit the string/thread/fuse and ran far far away. I didn't intend to kill myself or have an accident. It was a short spurt. But so fun. Heh. I've not really played with fireworks proper. Previous trips to China have not created many opportunities to play with them. I've always stood aside to watch. Now, I'm a proper 'fire-starter'!

I was so damn Singaporean lor; asked the friends if neighbors would complain about the noise or if it's illegal. The friends had to drill it into me that this is China, smoking everywhere is legal, fireworks are legal, setting them off in the middle of the street at whatever time is legal, leaving piles of paper and whatnots along the road is legal, and to hell with the neighbors if they complain because they're noisier. I listened and nodded with mirth. Hehhh.

My China induction is complete!

Pampering The Feet

We tried many foot massages, from the teeny outfits to medium-sized parlors, fancier joints and swanky spas. They're all fine, and whether you judge them good, depends entirely on the therapist you get. I've had good service at all the massage places, so no complaints at all.

At one place, a quick 5-minute ba guan (this suction cup thingy- 拔罐) session comes complimentary after the foot rub. Yikes! I vehemently objected to it. The therapists said that when done to the soles of the feet, there would be no bruising. I still said no. Have you seen the bruises left on the back? My body reacts badly to any sort of Chinese herbs, including soups. Huge boils appear on the body when I ingest cordyceps, dang gui (angelica root- 当归), ginseng and other herbs. The boils don't go away for weeks on end, and when they do, they leave dark marks. I don't do well with either the English or Chinese type of herbal teas either. I avoid them like plague. I'm not letting any sort of herbs or odd treatment style near me, declining herbs to be used even in the soaking of the feet.

The massages aren't so much of a luxury, but more of a necessity for me. An oil massage in a dry and cold climate is much needed relief to the skin. Essential oils like the gentle ylang ylang or lemongrass intensify the moisturizing effect when rubbed into the skin . In this climate, even a dense moisturizer isn't enough. I need oils- facial oils and body oils. The BFF said that I won't survive the harsher climate in Beijing where these oils are needed even in summer.

Tried Xinjiang Food

I'm lucky that most meals are taken with a large group. In that setting, we always have a variety of food that everyone can share and eat. Dinner was at Xibo, a Xinjiang restaurant. It's beautifully decorated, along with a wide range of food on its menu.

Some of the food's just strange for me. I don't do well with the spices because they overpower all the natural taste of the ingredients with a sourish sort of chilli which makes the tongue numb and an unwelcome acidic taste swirled around the mouth for moments after. Eeeeks. I had to ask for Coke to drown that out. The menu is extensive, but it must be because the table had ordered alot of meat and less vegetables. Whatever I tried of the starters were quite ummm.....weird. I was happy with the flatbreads and vegetables. The steamed pumpkin dumplings are good, along with the squares of potato used in the gravy of most dishes. Most stock and gravy are meat-based though.

I confess I didn't know what to make of the food. It isn't exactly horrible, but the oil, spices and goo-iness make my stomach churn. In the end, only the bread, broccoli, mushrooms and potatoes landed on my plate. Oh, and the fried rice was fairly delicious.

It's fairly fascinating to listen to the conversation at the table. They're not all Singaporeans. They come from all over the world to work in Shanghai. As a tourist, I don't really see the full picture of what Shanghai is about. All the little tales, stories, insights tell me about the friends' lives in Shanghai, their concerns, thoughts and comments. That's a valuable takeaway from this vacation.

Gotta Pack Up Soon

It's about time to start with the packing to head home. Sigh. So fast time flies when one is having fun. I'm acutely aware of the clock ticking. I've been sleeping very little in Shanghai, staying awake just to cherish those moments of quiet when everyone else is asleep. I spend alot of time staring at the moon that will be full in a bit.

The BFF is not the BFF without reason. I try not to think about it, but when I hugged her tight at the hotel lobby, I know I've missed her quite badly. Now that it's almost time to go home, I feel like I want to stay here for another month. I really should, except that schedules clash, and I've got to sort out bureaucratic nonsense on the spot to get a visa if I stay beyond 15 days. Then I might as well find a job here to stay on for 6 months or another year. Chehhh.

Whisky has featured quite largely in Shanghai. Heheheheh. I love the whisky bars here. And also with the selection of what we have at home if we want a dram of something in the cold. I'm quite pleased that with my superb packing skills and the help of bubble wrap and clothes to cushion the box, the bottle of Tobermory 32y.o didn't break in the checked-in suitcase. That was the first thing I hauled out to inspect for minute breakage.

Now that I've 'gotten rid' of everything meant for everyone else, my suitcases are practically empty. I did so much sightseeing and so little actual shopping. I didn't bother to buy anything for anyone. I won't have time to meet the friends. The man's newly-bought clothes don't take up space, and the ummm....packs of Tempo tissues I bought are extremely squishable. A bit of this and that, but nothing bulky. There's zilch for me to ship home separately. What a refreshing change!

Kota's Kitchen

The BFF saw the dopey look on my face and grinned. "You want Shanghainese food for dinner?" I was like, "NOOooooOOOoo! I've got enough bao (包) coming out of my ears!" Anything else would be nice. Plus I'm upset about not being able to watch The National next month, amongst other emo things that I don't have control over. Comfort food would be very welcomed. So Japanese yakitori it was to be. Wheewww!

By golly, Kota's Kitchen is so Japanese! For a quick minute, I thought I was transported to a teeny joint in Tokyo! Small, but cosy, it was packed out with regulars who liked the food as well. I perked up instantly. The smells and vibes were right. The food must be good.

We had so much food- ox tongue, chicken skin, chicken heart, beef...... There were also grilled onigiri, quail eggs, mushrooms, cuttlefish and whatnots. The deceptively slim skewers sent a load of calories into the body, washed down with all sorts of beer. I ate and ate and ate, in a bid to forget that not everything I want will go my way.

The owner is totally passionate about The Beatles. There're lots of memorabilia proudly displayed on the walls. He plays their songs and music videos all day. When we left, they gave away chupa chups to us. Such fun! Dinner was absolutely satisfying. I love this place. I can come back here for another meal quite easily.

Coffee In Shanghai

In a city where Starbucks kinda rules, Costa has a good share in the market too. How to avoid coffee chains? They're everywhere. I tried CoffeeBean and Gloria Jean's. With my default being a cappucino dry, my vote goes to Jamaica Blue for the best brew by a good barista.

I would make the trek, or rather a short cab ride for coffee! It isn't surprising that I grew an intense craving for sandwiches and salads. They're my default food. Jamaica Blue has got some decent sandwiches. Other little cafes I bummed around at include Boonna and the rather charming Coffee Tree. Hugely popular, these cafes are always packed out. It's probably a trendy place to see and be seen. But no, their coffee doesn't hit a spot.

The other sort of half decent brews will be from the hotel lounges or any cafe that does Illy. Pretty okay, but the ambience isn't exactly what I'm looking for. Then, it won't make a difference if I'm in Shanghai or London. A hotel lounge, is a hotel lounge. The friends laugh at me. They say, "You're in China. Drink tea! What's all this nonsense about coffee?!" Still, I'm not bothered. It isn't like we've fabulous coffees at home all the time. A cup of commercial brew from a chain store is better than a cup of instant powder aiiight. I'll have better luck this weekend with coffee in another continent. I woke up this morning dreaming of strong, aromatic flat whites. Kekekekkekek.

Peking Duck In Shanghai

朋友没试过，我也好奇，他们就带我这乡巴佬去 ‘老北京前门烤鸭’ 。说了我不吃了，但菜单上有其他北京菜可以试试。在上海吃烤鸭，感觉还怪怪的。但总得去看看是什么种经验嘛。

从没吃过真正的烤鸭，所以不知道烤鸭有 ‘三吃’ 和 ‘二吃’ 。‘二吃’ 指的是肉贴皮一起吃。我们选了 ‘三吃’ － 有皮和肉分开切摆在桌上，另外有炒鸭丝青菜，再送汤。朋友前阵子住在北京，习惯了那边食物风味。他们说鸭肉还行，皮看上去也对，可惜味道不够正宗。他们吃遍两个城市，认为上海的师傅做北京菜逊色多了。可我呢，一点儿都不会吃。那烤鸭的皮，亮亮油油又厚，和常吃的薄薄脆皮的很不同。

那米色的汤，很恶心。味道淡得要命，根本都不是汤。似随便用水加颜色或面粉煮出来的就叫汤。没动那锅20分钟，里边的‘汤油’凝结起来。哎哟。厨房不会做咕噜肉。没把肉炸脆，用的是瓶装番茄酱。简直胡闹。饺子还好；有含猪肉的，也有菜的。占点儿醋，挺好的。其他得菜，我都不会吃了，真浪费钱。幸好有整桌的朋友帮忙吃，那我就多关注其他的东西咯，如拍照。

也就在这里，体验到最差的服务。外人说中国服务业怎么不好，这餐馆的服务员都如此。要点东西，回答一句 “马上！” 其实不是这样。每个人答你 “马上”，但仍然悠闲的继续淡话，至少15钟后才去办。总的来说，你要什么，自己站起来去拿是最快的。最后一道菜没上，问了几次，等了半个小时才出现。真是说不过去。买单时就快得不得了。服务员的那种态度糟糕透顶。他们没兴趣做生意，我们也没兴趣回来光顾。

In Contemplation

With the sun out, the weather was glorious. It was a perfect day for strolling around the city. Bright and early, I left the apartment to start on the day's itinerary.

Since I viewed 'Culture Chanel', the theme might as well be continued over at 18 Gallery at Bund 18 to check out the prints and shots of Karl Lagerfeld. This exhibition is timed to coincide with 'Culture Chanel' anyway. Okay, I admit I wasn't that excited about it because the photos are mostly of himself and his supermodels. To me, it was a bit blah. I'm not that into fashion or portrait photography. Too much of a pleb to appreciate this fashion angle. But I like the building. It's beautiful! So much thought has gone into the color scheme, trimmings and mix of tenants.

I went to the residence of Song Qing Ling (宋庆龄故居). Enamored with the stories, influence, ideals and destiny of the Soong family, I'm very much intrigued by the Soong Sisters. People tend to forget that the family also had 3 illustrious sons. They were born in times of turmoil and rose to the ranks of political intrigue and patrioticism, and were key players in the development of Chinese history.

All visitors to the house had to wear plastic covers over their shoes to protect the flooring and carpets. I took my time to browse. I didn't understand why the busloads of Taiwanese tourists were kneeling in front of the statue for photos. They even kissed her feet. I was slightly amused and wondered if they viewed Song Mei Ling as such, since she was Mrs Chiang Kai-Shek.

The estate was tranquil. The hordes of visitors left by the time I went into the house. I sat at the garden for a good while, doing nothing, just staring into the green. I wondered what life was like back then. They were women of strength of their times, just like a certain recently deceased well-respected personage. Unknowingly, a full hour passed just like that.